It took me three trips to Skagway before I fulfilled my goal of visiting the Gold Rush Cemetery, but I finally did it. For anyone interested in the history of Skagway and the Gold Rush, this is an excursion you can easily plan yourself, and it costs very little. There’s even a bonus waterfall to boot.
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Getting There
The Gold Rush Cemetery is on a number of Skagway tour itineraries, but you can easily and cheaply get there on your own. You could walk it, but more people opt to take the SMART Bus. It pretty much runs in a loop. You want to pick it up on the east side of the street to go to the cemetery and on the west side of the street to return to the downtown area. In other words, be on the right-hand side of the street when you are facing the direction you want to go. An all-day pass cost us $5 a person, and there was an option for $2 one direction. Information for the SMART Bus can be found here, and a map including bus routes is here. The bus can also take you to other tourist sites like Jewell gardens.
After the bus drops you off, you still aren’t actually at the cemetery. Following the posted sign, you continue along Alaska street which will become a dirt road. This is about a 1/2 mile walk and pretty much flat. In good weather, this would be fine for a mobility device or stroller, but the cemetery and the falls would not be.
The Gold Rush Cemetery
The cemetery contains the graves of people buried in Skagway in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s which encompasses the gold rush time period. Most died in Skagway, but some died in Dyea, Haines, or on the Chilkoot trail. In more modern times, people have tried to save the historic information painted on the gravestones and found in old records. Some information has been completely lost, but the majority of grave markers have names and dates.
The cemetery is located on a hillside, among the trees. It’s a pretty setting, and you can wander among the graves, reading names and other inscriptions. While it’s sort of a somber place, there was nothing creepy about it from our perspective.
The History
An informational sign at the entrance to the cemetery explains the stories of some of the more notable graves. However, a little research ahead of time makes the experience far more interesting.
For example, Jefferson “Soapy” Smith was a local conman. He won a large amount of gold from a man in an illegal game of three card monte. Considering Soapy Smith’s reputation, it was probably rigged. The man refused to pay, and Smith and his friends grabbed the gold and ran. They later had a confrontation with a group of vigilantes determined to bring down Smith and his gang. Both Soapy Smith and Frank Reid, one of the vigilantes, were mortally wounded in the confrontation, though it is unclear whether each shot the other.
You can find both of these graves in the cemetery. Smith’s is a small marker with his name and dates of birth and death. Reid’s grave is grander and made of marble. Inscribed on it are the words, “He gave his life for the honor of Skagway.” These two graves are much more interesting to see when you know the history.
You can find a fascinating document with the known information about each grave here. You can read about young newlyweds Bert and Florence Horton who were murdered. The cemetery also contains the graves of people who died of tonsillitis, hypothermia, and sometimes violence. Sadly, a number of children are buried there as well. Together, they help paint a picture of what is was like in Skagway during the days of the gold rush.
Lower Reid Falls
A bonus aspect of this trip is the hike to Lower Reid Falls. The path is clearly marked. It’s uphill but quite short, and the payoff is definitely rewarding. The falls are a lot higher than I expected. The picture doesn’t really do it justice because it continues up around the corner a bit and continues down below in little falls and pretty pools. It was definitely worth the extra walk, and it was lovely to feel the cool spray on a hot day. I suspect the path is muddy and the spray less delightful in cold, wet weather.
Kid Factor
My kids (tweens and a teen) complained a bit about the walk out to the cemetery and back to the bus stop being hot and long. However, they thought the cemetery was interesting and didn’t find it particularly creepy or morbid. When I asked them, they said it was definitely more interesting because they’d learned about a few of the people before we went. 10 minutes or so of poking around and taking pictures was plenty for them. They also thought that Lower Reid Falls was worth the walk.
What do you think? Have you visited the Gold Rush Cemetery in Skagway? What did you think? Please be sure to scroll down to leave a question or comment below.
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